How do I sew on a button so it stays on?
The shank that lets the button sit properly, anchoring the thread without a knot showing, and matching the original.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 15 min
- Read
- 3 min
Short answer
Leave a small gap under the button as you sew — a pin laid across it does this — then wind the thread round the gap to form a shank. Without it the button sits too tight and pulls the fabric.
Buttons come off because they were sewn flat against the fabric, which puts all the strain on the threads rather than on the shank.
What you'll need
- Needle and thread matching the original
- A pin or a matchstick
- Small sharp scissors
Step by step
- Look at how the others are sewn.Thread colour, the pattern of the stitching — parallel bars, a cross, or a square. Matching it is what makes the repair invisible.
- Use the right thread.Ordinary polyester thread for most buttons; heavier button or upholstery thread for coats and anything under strain. Doubling the thread is a reasonable substitute.
- Anchor without a knot on the face.Two or three tiny stitches on the wrong side at the button's position, stitched over each other. Neater and more secure than a knot, which can pull through.
- Lay a pin across the button.A pin or a matchstick on top of the button, and sew over it. It holds the exact gap needed for the shank and it is the step that makes the difference.
- Stitch through four to six times.Through each pair of holes. More than that adds bulk without strength and can tear the fabric around the holes.
- Remove the pin and lift the button.Pull it up to the top of the slack thread so there is a clear gap between button and fabric.
- Wind the thread to form a shank.Bring the needle up under the button and wind the thread tightly round the loose threads five or six times. This is the shank, and it is what lets the button sit correctly through the buttonhole.
- Fasten off underneath.Needle through to the wrong side, two or three small stitches over each other, then cut close.
- Check it sits right.Fasten the garment. The button should sit flat with the fabric lying smooth, not pulled or puckered around it.
Tips
- Sew over a pin. It creates the shank gap automatically and it is the whole trick.
- Match the stitching pattern of the other buttons — parallel, crossed or square.
- Anchor with small stitches rather than a knot, which can pull through the weave.
Common mistakes
- Sewing the button tight to the fabric — With no shank the button cannot sit over the buttonhole layer, so it puckers the fabric and all the strain falls on the threads, which then wear through.
- Stitching through many more times for strength — Beyond about six passes it adds bulk rather than strength, and it can enlarge and tear the holes in the fabric around the button.
If it doesn't work
Button pulls the fabric into a pucker
Cause: No shank — Fix: Resew over a pin and wind a shank underneath.
Button keeps coming off
Cause: Thread too fine, or no shank — Fix: Use doubled or heavier thread and form a proper shank.
Fabric torn around the button
Cause: Too many stitches, or strain with no shank — Fix: Reinforce the wrong side with a small patch of interfacing before resewing.
Repair looks obvious
Cause: Wrong thread colour or stitch pattern — Fix: Match the thread and copy the stitch pattern of the neighbouring buttons.
Questions people ask
Why does my button need a shank?
The shank gives the button room to sit above the fabric it fastens through. Without it the button is pulled tight, the fabric puckers, and the threads take all the strain and wear through.
What thread should I use?
Match the original where you can. Polyester thread suits most shirts; coats and heavy garments benefit from button thread or doubled ordinary thread.