Why will my SDS bit not come out of the drill?
The one-handed technique people get wrong, and what to do when dry running has worn the holder.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 15 min
- Read
- 4 min
- Safety
- caution
Short answer
Pull the collar fully back towards the tool and hold it there, then pull the bit out — do not twist. If it still will not come, work the bit in and out of its free travel while the collar is held back, add a drop of penetrating oil at the collar, and tap the side of the bit with a soft mallet. Grease the shank next time.
An SDS holder releases when the collar slides back and lets the locking balls ride out of the grooves. Almost every stuck bit is one of three things: the collar not being pulled fully back, dried grease and masonry dust binding the balls, or a worn holder where the balls have picked up burrs from running dry.
Safety
Step by step
- Isolate the tool.Battery out or plug removed before your hand goes near the holder.
- Pull the collar fully back and hold it.All the way to its stop. Hold it there for the whole time you are pulling on the bit — releasing it halfway re-engages the balls.
- Pull straight, do not twist.The bit comes out axially. Twisting achieves nothing because the driving ribs already allow rotation, and it makes gripping harder.
- Work the free travel to break the packing.With the collar held, push the bit in and pull it out through its few millimetres of slide, repeatedly. This alone frees most stuck bits.
- Clean and grease before refitting.Wipe the shank, blow out the holder, and apply a smear of grease to the shank each time. Most SDS drills come with a small tube for exactly this and most owners never open it.
Tips
- Keep a rag and a small tube of grease with the SDS drill rather than in a drawer. The habit only forms if the grease is where the tool is.
- A bit left in the tool between jobs picks up moisture and dust in the holder. Take it out when you finish, and store the drill with the holder empty.
- If the tool has been used in chisel mode all day, the holder will be hot enough to make the grease run out. Let it cool before deciding it is worn.
If it doesn't work
The bit will not budge and the collar feels short
Cause: The collar has not been pulled fully back — Fix: Grip the collar between finger and thumb and pull it hard towards the body of the tool until it stops, then pull the bit out with the other hand. It is a firmer movement than most people apply.
Collar moves but the bit is stuck fast
Cause: Dust and dried grease packed round the locking balls — Fix: Hold the collar back and work the bit in and out of its few millimetres of free travel repeatedly to break the packing. Add a drop of penetrating oil at the mouth of the holder and give it ten minutes.
Bit rotates freely but will not withdraw
Cause: A burr on the shank where it has been worn by the driving ribs — Fix: Once out, file the burr off with a fine file. If the shank is visibly stepped or scored, the bit is worn out — replace it rather than keep damaging the holder.
Every bit sticks, not just one
Cause: The holder itself is worn or dry — Fix: Clean the holder out with a rag and a puffer, then re-grease. If bits still stick and feel sloppy sideways, the holder needs replacing, which is a service item on most SDS drills.
A chisel is stuck and will not rotate to the angle you want
Cause: The mode collar is in the locked chisel position rather than the free position — Fix: Move the mode selector to the intermediate position that allows the chisel to rotate, set the angle, then lock it. This is not a stuck bit at all.
Bit came out but the shank end is mushroomed
Cause: Prolonged hammering with a worn or dry holder, or a low-quality bit — Fix: Discard the bit. A mushroomed shank will damage the holder every time it goes in, and the cost of a holder is far above the cost of a bit.
Questions people ask
Is it normal for the bit to move in and out slightly?
Yes, and it is essential. The striker hits the end of the shank, so the bit has to be free to slide. A bit held rigid would transmit the hammer into the tool.
Can I use WD-40 in the holder?
Use a light penetrating oil to free something stuck, then clean it out and re-grease. A thin penetrating oil is not a substitute for grease and will leave the holder running dry.
How often should I grease the shank?
A smear every few uses, and always after a hard session or if the shank looks dry and grey. It costs seconds and it is the whole difference in holder life.