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How do I prepare walls for painting?

The preparation that decides how a paint job looks — cleaning, filling, sanding and priming, in the order that matters.

Difficulty
beginner
Time
4 hr
Read
2 min

Short answer

Wash the walls with sugar soap, fill and sand every defect, then prime any bare plaster or filler. Preparation is roughly 70% of a paint job, and the two most-skipped steps — washing and spot-priming — are the two that most affect the result.

Paint magnifies whatever is underneath it. A wall that looks fine in normal light will show every unfilled dent and every unsanded ridge once it has a fresh coat catching the light. Preparation is unglamorous and it is the whole job.

What you'll need

  • Sugar soap
  • Filler and a filling knife
  • Sandpaper (120 and 180 grit) and a sanding block
  • Dust sheets and low-tack masking tape
  • Primer or mist coat
  • Work light (optional)

Step by step

  1. Clear the room and cover what remains.Working around furniture doubles the time and guarantees a splash somewhere expensive.
  2. Shine a work light across the wall at a shallow angle.Raking light reveals every dent and bump. Mark them with a pencil — you will not see them once you start.
  3. Wash the walls with sugar soap, especially above radiators and in kitchens.Paint does not stick to grease, nicotine film or dust. This is the most-skipped and most-regretted step.
  4. Scrape off any flaking paint and feather the edges.A hard edge between old paint and bare wall shows through the topcoat regardless of how many coats you apply.
  5. Fill holes and cracks, leaving the filler slightly proud.All fillers shrink. Level now means slightly hollow tomorrow.
  6. Sand filled areas flush with a flat block once fully dry.Flat block, light pressure. A fingertip digs a dish around the repair.
  7. Vacuum and wipe the walls to remove sanding dust.Dust in the paint film is the most common cause of a gritty finish.
  8. Prime bare plaster with a mist coat — emulsion thinned about 10% with water.New or newly exposed plaster is very absorbent. Undiluted paint sits on the surface and can peel.
  9. Spot-prime all filled areas.Filler absorbs differently and will flash as a dull patch through the topcoat if left unprimed.

Tips

  • Run your hand over the wall with your eyes shut before painting. You will feel defects you cannot see, and so will the paint.
  • Mask sockets and switch plates rather than trying to cut around them, or unscrew the faceplates slightly and paint behind.
  • If the wall has water stains, use a stain-blocking primer or they will bleed through however many topcoats you apply.

Common mistakes

  • Skipping the wash — Grease and dust stop paint bonding — it peels or flashes later.
  • Not priming bare plaster — The plaster drinks the paint, leaving a patchy finish that can peel.
  • Sanding without checking with raking light first — You sand what you can see in flat light and miss what the fresh paint will reveal.

Questions people ask

Do I really need to wash walls before painting?

Yes, particularly in kitchens, above radiators and in any room where people have smoked. Paint does not adhere to grease or film, and the failure shows up weeks later rather than immediately.

What is a mist coat?

Emulsion thinned with about 10% water, applied to new or bare plaster so it soaks in and seals the surface. Full-strength paint on bare plaster sits on top and can peel away in sheets.

Want the whole subject?

  • MaterialWorld (in development)

    Primer choice — bare plaster, stain block, adhesion primer for gloss — is a material question MaterialWorld covers properly.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Home & DIY.