How do I patch a hole in jeans?

Denim rarely tears in one place. By the time there is a hole, the fabric around it is already thin, so a patch that covers only the hole simply moves the failure a centimetre sideways.

What you'll need

• A patch of similar-weight woven cotton or denim
• Thread — matching, or contrasting for a visible mend
• Pins and an iron
• Fusible interfacing (optional)

Step by step

1. Trim the loose threads, not the fabric.Cut away frayed ends but keep the fabric. Any denim still attached adds strength once it is stitched down.
2. Feel for the thin area around the hole.Hold it to the light. The pale, thin zone is what actually needs reinforcing, and it is usually two or three times the size of the hole itself.
3. Cut the patch to cover the whole thin area.At least two centimetres beyond the weakened zone on every side, with rounded corners so the corners do not lift in the wash.
4. Put the patch on the inside.Behind the hole. It is less visible, it wears far better because the outer fabric protects it, and the repair sits flush rather than proud.
5. Hold it in place before stitching.Fusible interfacing ironed on, or a few pins. Fusible web is not a repair on its own but it makes the sewing much easier.
6. Stitch dense parallel rows across the whole area.Rows about 3mm apart, running in the direction of the denim's warp. This is a darn as much as a patch and it is what gives the repair strength.
7. Cross the rows at the hole itself.A second set of rows at right angles directly over the hole rebuilds a woven structure where there is no fabric left.
8. Extend the stitching onto sound fabric.Well past the thin zone. Stitching that stops at the edge of the weak area concentrates strain exactly there, which is where it will tear next.
9. Decide between invisible and visible.Matching thread and an inside patch is close to invisible. A contrasting thread on the outside — the sashiko approach — is deliberate, durable and honest.
10. Press it and wash it inside out.Pressing settles the stitches. Washing inside out and at a lower temperature makes both the repair and the jeans last longer.

Tips

• Patch behind, not on top. The outer denim then protects the patch.
• Repair the thin area, not just the hole. The thin fabric is where it will go next.
• Rows about 3mm apart. Widely spaced stitching lets the denim move and fray between the rows.

Common mistakes

• Patching only the hole — The surrounding fabric is already worn thin. Stitching a small patch over the hole concentrates strain on the weak fabric at its edge, and it tears there within a few wears.
• Using an iron-on patch on its own — The adhesive stiffens the denim and lifts at the corners after a few washes, usually taking a little more fabric with it. It is fine as a temporary hold before stitching.

If it doesn't work

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