How do I make a risotto?

Risotto rice has a high-starch outer layer that dissolves into the liquid with agitation, which is what creates the sauce. That is why the stirring matters and why ordinary long-grain rice cannot make risotto.

What you'll need

• Arborio or carnaroli rice
• Hot stock
• Onion or shallot
• Butter and parmesan
• Wine (optional)

Step by step

1. Keep the stock hot in a pan alongside.Cold stock stops the cooking each time you add it and makes the rice cook unevenly. This matters more than it sounds.
2. Soften the onion gently in butter or oil first.Five to eight minutes, no colour. It is the flavour base and rushing it shows in the finished dish.
3. Add the rice and toast it for a minute or two.Stir until the grains look translucent at the edges with a white centre. This step firms the outside so the grains keep their shape.
4. Add wine if using and let it evaporate completely.The alcohol needs to cook off. Wait until the pan is nearly dry before starting on the stock.
5. Add hot stock one ladle at a time.Enough to just cover. Wait until it is nearly absorbed before adding the next. This is where the starch is released.
6. Stir regularly, but you need not stir constantly.Frequent stirring agitates the grains and releases starch. Continuous stirring is traditional but not strictly necessary.
7. Start tasting at about 16 minutes.It should be tender with a slight bite at the centre. Total time is usually 18-20 minutes but it varies by rice.
8. Beat in cold butter and parmesan off the heat, and rest two minutes.This final step — mantecatura — is what makes it glossy and creamy. Do not skip it, and do not add cream.

Tips

• Risotto should be loose enough to spread slowly on the plate. If it sits in a mound it is too dry — add another ladle of stock at the end.
• Carnaroli holds its shape better than arborio and is more forgiving of slight overcooking.
• Leftover risotto makes excellent arancini, and it is arguably better the second day in that form than reheated as risotto.

Common mistakes

• Using cold stock — It drops the pan temperature with every addition, so the rice cooks unevenly and takes far longer.
• Adding all the stock at once — The rice boils rather than being agitated, so the starch stays in the grain and you get rice soup rather than risotto.
• Adding cream — The creaminess comes from released starch and the final butter and cheese. Cream masks the texture rather than creating it.

Questions people ask