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How do I get rid of rats in the garden?

Removing the three things that hold a rat population — food, water and harbourage — and the point at which it becomes someone else's job.

Difficulty
intermediate
Time
3 hr
Read
5 min
Safety
warning

Short answer

Rats are in the garden because something is feeding them. Take away the food source, which is usually a bird feeder, a compost bin taking cooked waste, pet food, or an accessible bin, then remove the cover they live under and check for a defective drain. Do not lay poison yourself.

A garden rat problem is nearly always an environment problem rather than a plague. Rats need food within a short distance of shelter, and a garden supplies both remarkably easily. Removing either one moves them on faster than any bait, and it is the only approach that keeps them gone.

Safety

Rat urine can carry leptospirosis, a serious illness — wear gloves, cover cuts, and wash hands thoroughly after any work where rats are active. Do not lay loose rodenticide in a garden: it poisons pets, hedgehogs, foxes and birds of prey, and it is unlawful under most product labels. Rats indoors, rats in numbers, or burrows near a drain are a professional job, and a suspected broken drain should go to your water company or council.

What you'll need

  • Gloves
  • A rigid, rodent-proof compost bin or a base of fine mesh
  • Metal bird feeders with catch trays, or a period without feeding (optional)
  • Fine stainless mesh and tools for proofing (optional)
  • A torch, for dusk observation (optional)

Step by step

  1. Confirm it is rats and estimate how many.Droppings 12-19mm with blunt ends, smooth runs through vegetation, burrows 60-90mm across usually against a wall or under decking, and smear marks along fences. Seeing one in daylight often means a substantial population.
  2. Find the food, because there always is one.Spilled birdseed under a feeder is the most common cause in UK gardens. Then pet food and water bowls left out, a compost bin with cooked food or meat in it, fallen fruit, chicken feed, and an overflowing or damaged bin.
  3. Stop feeding birds for a few weeks.It is unwelcome advice and it is the single most effective step. If you resume, use feeders with catch trays, hang them well away from cover, and sweep the ground beneath them daily.
  4. Fix the compost.No cooked food, no meat, no dairy, no bread. Use a rigid closed bin standing on fine wire mesh, and turn it regularly — an undisturbed warm heap is exactly what a rat wants for a nest.
  5. Sort out the bins.Lids that close fully, no bags left beside the bin, and a hard standing rather than long grass. A bin store with a solid base and no gap at the bottom removes both the food and the shelter.
  6. Remove the harbourage.Stacked timber, pallets, rubble piles, an overgrown corner, dense ivy at ground level, a gap under decking or a shed. Raising a shed on bearers so there is a visible, open, 200mm gap underneath is very effective — rats will not use a space they can be seen in.
  7. Remove standing water.Rats need to drink daily. A leaking outside tap, a pet bowl, an uncovered water butt or a blocked gully all sustain them.
  8. Check for a defective drain.Rats living in the sewer reach a garden through a broken drain, a displaced inspection chamber cover or a redundant, uncapped connection. Burrows appearing next to a manhole is the classic sign. Report it — the water company or the council will usually investigate.
  9. Proof the house before you do anything else outdoors.Whatever you do in the garden, make sure the building is closed up: airbricks meshed, service pipe entries sealed, gaps under doors closed. A garden population that loses its food source will look elsewhere, and you do not want that to be indoors.
  10. Get a professional in rather than laying poison.A BPCA or NPTA member uses tamper-resistant stations, records placement, searches for and removes bodies, and knows the label conditions. Many councils also run a rat treatment service, often cheaply. This is not a job to improvise with supermarket bait.
  11. Keep the changes permanent.Rats return within weeks if the feeder goes back up and the wood pile comes back. The environmental changes are the treatment; anything else is a temporary reduction.

Tips

  • Watch at dusk with a torch for ten minutes. You will learn more about the routes and numbers than from any amount of daytime searching.
  • A neighbour feeding birds heavily or keeping chickens will keep the population supplied whatever you do. It is worth a conversation across the fence, framed as a shared problem.
  • Never block a burrow with someone inside — it just gets reopened elsewhere and it tells you nothing.

Common mistakes

  • Laying supermarket bait blocks around the garden — It breaches most product labels, poisons hedgehogs, cats, foxes and owls through secondary poisoning, and leaves rats dying in inaccessible places. It also does nothing about the food source that brought them.
  • Treating without changing anything — A treated garden with a full bird feeder and an open compost bin repopulates within weeks. The environment is what supports the population.

If it doesn't work

Burrows reappear after being filled

Cause: The population is still there and still fed — Fix: Remove the food source and the cover rather than filling holes. Filling a burrow without addressing either simply moves the entrance.

Rats under the decking

Cause: Dry, dark, undisturbed space with food nearby — Fix: Close the perimeter with fine stainless mesh dug in at the edge, after confirming nothing is inside, and remove the food source first so they leave rather than being sealed in.

Rats around a chicken run

Cause: Spilled feed and a permanent food supply — Fix: Feed in the morning only, remove uneaten feed at dusk, store feed in metal bins, and stand the run on a mesh base. This is a very common and very solvable cause.

Activity centred on a manhole cover

Cause: Defective drain or an uncapped redundant connection — Fix: Report it to the water company or the council. Sewer defects are frequently their responsibility to investigate and repair.

Questions people ask

Will the council deal with rats for free?

Many councils treat rats free or at low cost for domestic properties, and some prioritise them because of the public health dimension. Check your council's pest control page — it is often much cheaper than a private contractor.

Are rats in the garden a problem if they stay outside?

They rarely stay outside. As numbers grow, or when food disappears in winter, they explore buildings. They also gnaw, undermine paving and can damage drains, so an established garden population is worth dealing with.

Do I have to stop feeding the birds permanently?

No, but pause while you clear the problem and then feed differently: hanging feeders with catch trays, away from cover, small quantities, and the ground swept daily. Ground feeding and fat balls dropped in a border are what causes it.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Home & DIY.