How do I fix something to a tiled wall?
Drilling tile without cracking it, which plug to use behind, and the mistake that splits a whole tile.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 30 min
- Read
- 4 min
- Safety
- warning
Short answer
Turn the hammer action off, mark through tape to stop the bit wandering, start slowly with a tile or diamond bit, and drill through the tile before switching to a masonry bit for the wall behind. Never drill into grout lines for a fixing that carries weight.
Tile is hard and brittle, which means it resists a bit but shatters under shock. Everything about doing this properly comes from that: no hammering, no wandering, and no pressure until the bit has bitten.
Safety
Step by step
- Find out what is behind the wall first.A detector for pipes and cables, and a moment's thought about where the taps, shower and sockets are. Bathroom walls are the most heavily serviced in the house.
- Turn hammer action off.This is the single most important step. Hammer action shatters tile immediately. Set the drill to rotary only before it touches the wall.
- Mark the spot and stop the bit wandering.Masking tape over the mark, or a strip of tape with the position drawn on it. Glazed tile is slippery and an unrestrained bit skates across it, scratching the glaze permanently.
- Use the right bit.A spear-point tile bit for ceramic, or a diamond-tipped bit for porcelain — porcelain is far harder and will destroy an ordinary tile bit. Not a standard masonry bit for the tile itself.
- Start very slowly with light pressure.Low speed until the bit has cut a small crater and cannot slip. Then steady moderate speed and light pressure. Forcing it is what cracks tiles.
- Keep the bit cool.A little water or a damp sponge on the tile face, particularly with porcelain. Heat blunts the bit and can crack the tile. Take the drill out periodically to let it cool.
- Change bits once through the tile.Switch to a masonry bit for the wall behind, and hammer action can go on at that point if the substrate is brick or block — but only once the tile is fully penetrated.
- Drill into the tile, not the grout line.Grout is much weaker and a fixing in it will pull out. Drilling the tile face is safer than it feels, and grout lines only suit very light loads.
- Choose a plug that suits what is behind.Solid masonry takes a standard plug. Plasterboard behind tile needs a plasterboard fixing sized for the total thickness. Getting this wrong is the usual reason a tiled-wall fixing fails.
- Seal the hole in a wet area.A little silicone in the hole before inserting the plug, and around the screw where it enters. Water tracking into a drilled hole behind tile causes damage nobody sees for a year.
- Do not overtighten.The screw pulls the fitting against the tile and the tile is the brittle part. Tighten until firm and stop.
Tips
- Practise on a spare tile if you have any. Two minutes with an offcut removes most of the anxiety.
- A suction-cup drill guide or even a piece of card taped over the tile helps hold the bit until it bites.
- For a light fitting such as a towel hook, strong adhesive pads avoid drilling entirely and hold better than people expect on a clean glazed surface.
Common mistakes
- Leaving hammer action on — Tile is brittle and shatters under percussion. It cracks on the first blow, usually across the whole tile.
- Drilling into grout for a load-bearing fixing — Grout is much weaker than tile and the plug pulls straight out. Drill the tile face instead.
If it doesn't work
Bit skates across the tile
Cause: Glazed surface and no starting purchase — Fix: Masking tape over the spot, very low speed, and light pressure until the bit cuts a crater.
Tile cracks as you drill
Cause: Hammer action on, too much pressure, or the bit overheating — Fix: Rotary only, light pressure, keep it cool with water. A cracked tile can be replaced individually if you have spares.
Fixing pulls out of the wall
Cause: Plug wrong for the substrate — commonly a masonry plug in plasterboard — Fix: Use a plasterboard fixing sized for the tile plus board thickness, or find a stud.
Bit makes no progress in porcelain
Cause: Ceramic tile bit on porcelain — Fix: Use a diamond-tipped bit with water cooling. Porcelain is far harder than ceramic.
Questions people ask
How do I drill into tile without cracking it?
Turn hammer action off, mark through masking tape so the bit cannot skate, use a spear-point or diamond bit, start very slowly with light pressure, and keep the bit cool with a little water.
Should I drill into the tile or the grout?
Into the tile. Grout is much weaker and a fixing in it pulls out under load. Grout lines are only suitable for very light fittings.