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Why is my dishwasher not draining?

The drain path runs sump, filter, pump, hose, high loop, waste connection — check it in that order and an uncut waste spigot or a blocked filter accounts for most cases.

Difficulty
beginner
Time
45 min
Read
5 min
Safety
caution

Short answer

Bail the water out, clean the filter and check the sump, then check the waste connection at the sink — a new install that has never drained almost always has an uncut blanking spigot on the trap. If the pump does not even try to run, it is an engineer's job.

Water sitting in the bottom at the end of a cycle means the drain path is blocked somewhere between the sump and the drain under the sink, or the pump has failed. The path is short and every part of it except the pump is designed to be checked by the owner, so work along it in order rather than guessing.

Safety

Switch the machine off at the socket before putting a hand in the sump. There is a chopper blade or impeller under the filter on many machines, and broken glass in standing water is common. The water can still be hot. Dishwasher detergent residue is strongly alkaline — wear gloves and keep it out of your eyes.

What you'll need

  • A jug and a sponge or old towels
  • Rubber gloves
  • A bowl or washing-up bowl for the drained water
  • A screwdriver for the hose clip (optional)
  • A torch (optional)
The drain path of a dishwasher, and the six places it blocks

Step by step

  1. Switch it off at the socket.Not just the programme button. You are going to reach into the sump, and on many machines there is a chopper blade under the filter that is driven by the wash motor.
  2. Bail out the standing water.A jug down to the last inch, then a sponge or towels. You cannot assess anything through a bowl of grey water, and you will spill it on the floor when you tip the machine forward later.
  3. Remove and clean the filter assembly.Bottom centre, usually a coarse cylinder that twists a quarter turn, plus a flat fine mesh under it. Rinse both under a hot tap and brush them. A filter caked with grease and starch is the most common single cause.
  4. Check the sump underneath the filter with a torch.Look for a fruit sticker, a plastic seal from a milk bottle, a bone fragment or broken glass sitting over the drain outlet. Lift it out with gloved fingers or long tweezers — not with bare hands, because of the glass.
  5. Run a drain cycle and listen.Switch the machine back on and select the shortest programme, or the cancel-and-drain function if it has one. A humming or straining noise means the pump is trying and cannot shift water — a blockage further along. Total silence at the point it should drain means the pump is not being driven, which is an engineer's job.
  6. Check the waste connection under the sink — this is where a new install fails.Where the dishwasher hose joins the sink trap or waste, there is a moulded spigot with a blanking disc inside it. It must be cut or knocked out before use. A machine that has never drained since it was fitted almost always has an intact blanking disc.
  7. Check the sink trap and the waste pipe itself.Undo the trap over a bowl and clear it. A dishwasher drains into the same waste as the sink, so a trap silted up with fat will back the machine up even when the machine is perfect. If the sink also drains slowly, this is your answer.
  8. Check the drain hose for a kink and for the high loop.Pull the machine out gently. The hose must rise to at least 600mm above floor level before it drops to the waste, or dirty water siphons back. Look for the hose crushed behind the machine or trapped under a foot.
  9. Clear the drain hose itself if everything else is clear.Release the clip, drop the free end into a bucket below the machine and let it gravity drain. If nothing comes out, the hose is blocked — flush it through with hot water at a sink. Grease sets solid in the corrugations of an old hose.
  10. Stop and call an engineer if the pump is silent or the machine shows a drain error after all this.A failed drain pump, a blocked pump impeller behind an access cover, or a failed pressure sensor are all internal jobs. Nothing behind the base panel is owner-serviceable on a plumbed-in appliance you cannot safely tip.

Common mistakes

  • Pouring drain cleaner into the dishwasher — It is formulated for sink waste, not for a machine full of stainless steel, rubber seals and a plastic pump housing. It will not reach a filter blockage and can damage the seals.
  • Tipping the machine forward to empty it — The water goes into the base tray and onto the floor, and on a machine with a float switch the trapped water triggers a lockout that makes the machine look more broken than it was.

If it doesn't work

Water comes back into the machine after it has drained

Cause: No high loop, or the drain hose is connected below the water level of the sink trap — Fix: Fix the hose so it rises above 600mm before falling to the waste, and clip it there. Siphoning back is the classic symptom of a hose that runs flat along the floor.

Machine drains but leaves a shallow puddle around the filter

Cause: Normal on most machines — Fix: A film of water in the sump is by design — it keeps the seals from drying out. A centimetre or more of standing water is not.

The sink gurgles or fills when the dishwasher drains

Cause: Partially blocked shared waste, or an air lock — Fix: Clear the sink trap and the waste run. If the sink backs up with dishwasher water, the shared waste is the restriction, not the appliance.

Drain error code appears immediately, before any water moves

Cause: Pressure sensor or float switch reading a fault, or the base tray has water in it — Fix: Check for a leak into the base tray — many machines lock out and refuse to run when the float trips. If there is no leak, it is an engineer's diagnosis.

Questions people ask

The filter was filthy but it still will not drain. What now?

Move down the path: sump, then waste spigot, then sink trap, then hose. In a house where the dishwasher shares a waste with the washing machine or a sink, the shared section is the usual culprit and the appliance is fine.

Is a dishwasher not draining covered by home insurance?

Not the appliance itself, but the water damage from a resulting leak may be. Appliance breakdown cover is a separate add-on on most policies — check before you assume either way.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Home & DIY.