Why did my swiss roll crack when I rolled it?
Rolling the sponge hot so it sets curved, and the three other faults that crack a roll — overbaking, too much flour and too tight a first roll.
- Difficulty
- intermediate
- Time
- 30 min
- Read
- 3 min
Short answer
Roll it while it is still hot, with baking paper inside, and let it cool in that shape. A sponge that cools flat has set flat, and bending it afterwards cracks the outside of the curve.
A swiss roll cracks because you are asking a set structure to bend. Roll it while the starch is still soft and it takes the shape permanently; roll it cold and the surface has to tear to accommodate the curve.
Step by step
- Bake it in a lined swiss roll tin.Baking paper with the edges standing proud, so you can lift the sponge out immediately. A stuck sponge is a cracked sponge.
- Do not overbake it.Eight to twelve minutes at 200°C for a thin sponge. It is done when it springs back and is just coming away at the edges. Every extra minute dries it and dry sponge cracks.
- Turn it out immediately onto sugared paper.A sheet of baking paper dusted with caster sugar, sponge tipped straight onto it, and the original lining paper peeled off.
- Trim the crisp edges off.A centimetre from each side. The dried edges are the first place a crack starts.
- Score a line 2cm from the short edge.A shallow cut, not all the way through. It gives the first turn somewhere to fold and starts the curl tightly.
- Roll it up hot, with the paper inside.Starting at the scored edge, roll firmly but not tightly, rolling the paper up inside so the layers do not stick to each other.
- Leave it rolled until completely cool.Seam down, on a rack. It sets in that shape, which is the whole point of the exercise.
- Unroll, fill and re-roll.Unroll gently, spread the filling to within 2cm of the edges, and roll it back up using the paper to help. It goes back into a shape it already knows.
- Do not overfill.Too much cream or jam is forced out at the ends and pushes the sponge apart along the seam.
Tips
- Roll it hot. It is the one thing that matters more than everything else combined.
- Trim the dry edges before rolling — they crack first.
- A little glycerine or an extra egg yolk in the batter makes the sponge more flexible.
Common mistakes
- Letting the sponge cool flat before rolling — The starch sets in whatever shape it cools in. Bending a set sponge stretches the outside of the curve past what it can take, so it tears across the top in long parallel cracks.
- Overbaking a thin sponge — Two extra minutes on a 1cm sponge dries a large proportion of it, because there is so little mass. Dry sponge has no flexibility left and cracks however hot you roll it.
If it doesn't work
Long cracks across the top
Cause: Rolled cold, or overbaked — Fix: Roll it hot next time and take it out at the first sign of springiness.
Sponge stuck to the paper
Cause: Tin not lined or paper not sugared — Fix: Line properly and turn out onto sugared paper immediately.
Filling squeezing out of the ends
Cause: Overfilled — Fix: Spread thinly and leave a 2cm border at the far edge.
Roll uncoils
Cause: Rolled too loosely, or seam upwards — Fix: Roll firmly and rest it seam side down.
Already cracked
Cause: Too late to fix — Fix: Cover it — icing, dusted sugar, whipped cream on top. Nobody sees the cracks and it tastes the same.
Questions people ask
Can I roll a swiss roll with a tea towel instead of paper?
Yes, and it is the traditional method — a damp tea towel dusted with sugar. Paper is easier to peel away cleanly and does not shed fibres, but both work.
Can I save a cracked swiss roll?
Not structurally, but a cracked roll covered with icing, cream or dusted sugar looks deliberate and tastes identical. Alternatively slice it and serve it as a trifle layer.