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How do I fit or replace a garage side door?

Replacing a garage side door frame and all in a masonry opening — measuring, fixing the frame square and plumb, and the threshold and weather details that decide whether it rots.

Difficulty
advanced
Time
8 hr
Read
7 min
Safety
warning

Short answer

Work to the existing structural opening: measure it at three heights and three widths, take the smallest, and order a doorset 10 to 15mm smaller each way for packing. Fix the frame through into masonry with frame fixings at close centres, plumb and square with the diagonals equal, then weatherproof the threshold and the head before hanging anything on it.

A garage side door is an external door in a masonry opening, usually with no porch, no overhang and often facing the weather on the least-maintained elevation of the property. That combination is why they rot at the bottom, stick in winter and end up with a lock that no longer lines up. Replacing one properly is ordinary work, and the parts that make the difference are the threshold detail, the frame fixings and getting the frame genuinely square.

Safety

Do not remove or alter the masonry above an opening. The lintel over a garage side door is structural, and cutting a new opening or widening an existing one requires a properly sized lintel and, in most cases, building regulations approval, or a building warrant in Scotland — that is a job for a builder or a structural engineer, not a DIY afternoon. Where the door is in a wall between an integral garage and the house, fire resisting and self-closing requirements apply and the specification is not a matter of preference.

What you'll need

  • Doorset — door and frame together — sized to the opening
  • Frame fixings rated for masonry
  • Packers — plastic or hardwood, not softwood offcuts
  • Long spirit level, at least 1.8m
  • Low-modulus exterior sealant and expanding foam
  • SDS drill, chisels and a reciprocating saw
  • Cable and pipe detector
  • DPC strip and a weatherbar or drip
  • Threshold or sill section (optional)
Garage side door in a masonry opening — the details that decide its life

Step by step

  1. Establish what is above the opening.There must be a lintel over the door and it must be sound. Look for a visible lintel, a soldier course or an arch. If you are changing the opening size in any way, stop — that is structural work needing design and building control, not a door replacement.
  2. Check whether the door has a fire rating requirement.A door between an integral garage and the living accommodation has specific fire resistance and self-closing requirements, and a garage side door onto a passage close to a boundary may have its own considerations. A door in an external wall of a detached garage generally does not. Establish which situation you are in before choosing a door.
  3. Measure the structural opening properly.Width at top, middle and bottom; height at both sides and the centre; and both diagonals. Take the smallest width and height as your working dimensions. Openings in masonry are never square and the smallest figure is the one the frame has to fit through.
  4. Order the doorset undersize.10 to 15mm smaller than the smallest opening dimension in each direction. That gap is for packing, plumbing and foam. A doorset ordered to the opening size cannot be adjusted, and adjustment is the whole job.
  5. Take the old frame out without wrecking the reveal.Cut through the old frame fixings with a reciprocating saw, cut the frame in two places on each jamb, and collapse it inwards. Levering a whole frame out pulls the reveal, the render and sometimes the plaster inside with it.
  6. Prepare and check the opening.Clean the reveals back to sound masonry, check for a damp proof course at the jambs and at the threshold, and scan for cables and pipes before drilling anywhere. Make good any broken brick before the frame goes in, not after.
  7. Sit the frame on a proper threshold detail.The frame's cill or bottom rail must not sit directly on wet concrete. A strip of DPC under the frame, the cill bedded and sealed, and where possible a small step up so water is not standing at the joint. This detail is the reason most garage side doors rot at the bottom.
  8. Fix the frame plumb, square and straight — in that order.Wedge it in with packers, plumb both jambs in both directions with a long level, check the head is level, and measure both diagonals equal. Only then start fixing. Frame fixings through the jambs at around 450mm centres, always packed at the fixing point so the fixing cannot pull the frame out of line.
  9. Check the door before you foam anything.Hang the door if it is not pre-hung, close it, and look at the margin all round. An even gap top, bottom and both sides means the frame is right. Correct it now — after the foam has gone in, adjustment means starting again.
  10. Weather the head and the outside joint.A drip or a weatherbar over the head if there is no overhang above, and a low-modulus sealant joint between frame and masonry all round the outside, on a properly cleaned and dry surface. Foam is an insulator and a gap filler, not a weather seal.
  11. Fit the ironmongery and finish the timber.Lock, handles, hinges and a threshold seal as required. Then finish every face of a timber door, including the top and bottom edges, before it takes any weather. Unfinished end grain at the bottom of an external door is the single commonest cause of early failure.

Tips

  • Buy a complete doorset rather than a door and a frame separately. A factory-hung set arrives square, with the hinges and lock already positioned correctly, and it removes most of the ways this job goes wrong.
  • A composite or uPVC doorset is a reasonable choice for a garage side door precisely because the exposure is high and the maintenance usually is not.
  • If the door is on a passage between houses, think about security before choosing. A garage side door is often the least-watched entrance on a property.
  • Photograph the opening with a tape in it before ordering. Suppliers ask questions you will not have thought to measure.
  • Do the outside sealant joint on a dry mild day. Sealant applied to a damp or cold surface does not bond and the joint fails in its first winter.

Common mistakes

  • Changing the size of the opening — The lintel is sized for the span it was built for. Widening an opening without a new correctly sized lintel is a structural alteration and it is dangerous as well as unlawful without approval.
  • Fixing the frame without packers at every fixing — Tightening a frame fixing against a void pulls the jamb towards the masonry and bows it. The door then binds, and nothing you do to the door will fix it.
  • Relying on expanding foam to hold or seal the frame — Foam fills and insulates. It is not a structural fixing and it is not weathertight — it degrades in sunlight and absorbs water at an exposed joint.
  • Leaving the bottom edge of a timber door unfinished — It is the edge that gets wettest and the one nobody paints because the door is hung. It wicks water straight up into the door and the bottom rail rots first.
  • Ignoring the fire requirement on an integral garage door — The door between an attached garage and a house is a fire separation element with specific requirements including self-closing. Fitting a standard external door there removes protection people depend on.

If it doesn't work

The new door binds along one edge

Cause: The frame is not plumb, or a fixing has been tightened without a packer behind it and has pulled the jamb in. — Fix: Slacken the fixings on that jamb, re-plumb with packers at every fixing, and re-tighten. This is why the door is hung and checked before foaming.

Water sits at the threshold

Cause: The external ground or garage floor is level with or above the frame, or there is no fall away from the door. — Fix: Create a fall away from the threshold and a drainage channel or gravel margin outside. A door standing in a puddle will rot whatever it is made of.

The bottom of the previous door rotted

Cause: No overhang above, no weatherbar, unfinished bottom edge and standing water at the threshold — usually all four. — Fix: Address every one of them on the new door: weatherbar, drip at the head, sealed bottom edge, and a threshold that drains.

The lock will not engage after a season

Cause: The frame has moved because it was fixed without packers, or the door has dropped on its hinges. — Fix: Check the frame is still plumb and square first. If it is, the fault is in the door or the hinges and it is a hardware adjustment.

Questions people ask

Do I need building regulations approval to replace a garage side door?

Replacing a door in an existing opening in a detached garage is generally not notifiable, but a door between an integral garage and the dwelling is a fire separation element with requirements, and any change to the opening itself is structural work that is. Check with building control if either applies.

What lock should I fit?

That depends on the door construction and on what your insurer asks for — the standards and the differences between a timber door and a multipoint uPVC or composite door are covered in the door hardware guides rather than repeated here. As a general point, a garage side door is often the least observed door on a property and deserves at least as good a lock as the back door.

Timber, composite or uPVC?

Composite and uPVC doorsets need no repainting, which suits a door on an exposed elevation that will not get maintained. Timber can be repaired, matched and made to look right on an older property, at the cost of a repaint every few years and a real intolerance of standing water at the threshold.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Home & DIY.