How do I check and clean an air vent or airbrick?
Finding the ones you have, why blocking them causes damp rather than preventing it, and clearing them safely.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 1 hr
- Read
- 4 min
- Safety
- warning
Short answer
Walk round the outside and find every airbrick, then check none is blocked by soil, render, plants, a raised patio or an insulation fill. They ventilate the floor void and blocking them is a leading cause of damp and rot — never block one, and never block a vent serving a gas appliance.
Airbricks are the most consistently misunderstood feature of a house. They look like a source of draughts and are frequently blocked deliberately, which causes exactly the problem the house was built to avoid.
Safety
Step by step
- Find out what vents you have.Walk the whole perimeter and note every airbrick, usually just below floor level on a suspended timber floor. Also look for wall vents inside, trickle vents in windows and vents serving appliances.
- Understand what they are for.Airbricks ventilate the void beneath a suspended timber floor. Moving air keeps the joists and floorboards dry. Without it, moisture builds up and causes rot and damp — this is the whole reason they exist.
- Never block one.Not with foam, not with a brick, not for winter. It is a very common and very expensive mistake, and it causes far more damp than the draught it removes.
- Check ground level against them.Soil, gravel, a raised patio, decking or a new path can bury an airbrick or leave it below ground level. Dig back so there is clear air in front of it and below the damp-proof course.
- Clear plants and debris.Shrubs growing against the wall, leaves accumulating, a wheelie bin standing in front. Anything within a few centimetres restricts the airflow considerably.
- Check for render or paint over them.Rendering and painting frequently seals airbricks partially or completely. Look closely — a rendered-over airbrick is not obvious and it is a common finding in a damp survey.
- Clean them out with a brush and a vacuum.A stiff brush and a narrow vacuum nozzle. Cobwebs, leaf litter, mortar droppings and old insulation all restrict them and it takes a minute each.
- Check inside the void where you can.Lifting a floorboard or looking through an access hatch. Rubble, old insulation and debris in the void can block the path even when the airbricks themselves are clear.
- Replace broken or missing ones.Clay or plastic airbricks are inexpensive and straightforward to replace. A missing one lets rodents into the void, which is its own problem.
- Fit a periscope vent through insulation.Where cavity wall insulation or an extension has interrupted the path, a telescopic or periscope vent carries the air through. This is the correct answer rather than accepting a blocked vent.
- Check there are enough of them.They should be reasonably spaced along each wall, with cross-ventilation from one side to the other. A void with airbricks on only one wall does not ventilate properly.
- Leave appliance vents entirely alone.A vent serving a gas fire, boiler or solid fuel appliance is a combustion air supply. Blocking or restricting it is dangerous. If unsure what a vent serves, ask a Gas Safe engineer.
- Deal with draughts a different way.If the floor is draughty, insulate under it and seal the gaps between floorboards. That addresses the draught while keeping the void ventilated.
- Check them annually.Autumn, when leaves accumulate. It takes ten minutes round the whole house and it is among the highest-value maintenance checks there is.
Tips
- Walk the perimeter once and photograph each airbrick. It makes the annual check a two-minute comparison.
- A blocked airbrick is a far more expensive problem than a cold floor. Insulate under the floor instead.
- Look specifically for render and paint over them. It is the blockage people never notice.
Common mistakes
- Blocking airbricks to stop draughts — The void then holds moisture, and rot in the joists and floorboards follows. It causes far more damage than the draught it removes, and it is a common finding in damp surveys.
- Raising ground level over an airbrick — A new patio, path or raised bed can bury a vent and bridge the damp-proof course at the same time. Keep the ground clear and below the DPC.
If it doesn't work
Musty smell and damp at floor level
Cause: Blocked or insufficient subfloor ventilation — Fix: Find and clear every airbrick, dig back raised ground, and check the void for debris blocking the path.
Airbrick below the new ground level
Cause: Raised patio, path or border — Fix: Dig a clear channel in front of it, or fit a periscope vent to raise the opening above ground.
Springy or soft floorboards near an outside wall
Cause: Possible rot from poor void ventilation — Fix: Clear the vents and get the timber assessed. Persistent damp in a floor void needs proper investigation.
Air vent whistling or draughty inside
Cause: Room vent serving an appliance — Fix: Do not block it. Fit a baffle or hit-and-miss cover only if it does not serve a fuel-burning appliance, and check with a Gas Safe engineer.
Questions people ask
Should I block up airbricks in winter?
No. They ventilate the void under a suspended timber floor, and blocking them causes damp and rot in the joists and boards. Insulate under the floor instead if it is cold.
How do I know if my airbricks are blocked?
Walk the perimeter and look at each one — soil, plants, a raised patio, render or paint can all obstruct them. Also check inside the void for rubble or old insulation blocking the airflow path.