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How do I check and clean an air vent or airbrick?

Finding the ones you have, why blocking them causes damp rather than preventing it, and clearing them safely.

Difficulty
beginner
Time
1 hr
Read
4 min
Safety
warning

Short answer

Walk round the outside and find every airbrick, then check none is blocked by soil, render, plants, a raised patio or an insulation fill. They ventilate the floor void and blocking them is a leading cause of damp and rot — never block one, and never block a vent serving a gas appliance.

Airbricks are the most consistently misunderstood feature of a house. They look like a source of draughts and are frequently blocked deliberately, which causes exactly the problem the house was built to avoid.

Safety

Never block, cover or partially obstruct a vent serving a gas appliance, a solid fuel fire or a boiler — they need air for safe combustion and blocking one can cause carbon monoxide to build up. If you are unsure what a vent serves, leave it and ask a Gas Safe engineer. Fit a carbon monoxide alarm in any room with a fuel-burning appliance.

Step by step

  1. Find out what vents you have.Walk the whole perimeter and note every airbrick, usually just below floor level on a suspended timber floor. Also look for wall vents inside, trickle vents in windows and vents serving appliances.
  2. Understand what they are for.Airbricks ventilate the void beneath a suspended timber floor. Moving air keeps the joists and floorboards dry. Without it, moisture builds up and causes rot and damp — this is the whole reason they exist.
  3. Never block one.Not with foam, not with a brick, not for winter. It is a very common and very expensive mistake, and it causes far more damp than the draught it removes.
  4. Check ground level against them.Soil, gravel, a raised patio, decking or a new path can bury an airbrick or leave it below ground level. Dig back so there is clear air in front of it and below the damp-proof course.
  5. Clear plants and debris.Shrubs growing against the wall, leaves accumulating, a wheelie bin standing in front. Anything within a few centimetres restricts the airflow considerably.
  6. Check for render or paint over them.Rendering and painting frequently seals airbricks partially or completely. Look closely — a rendered-over airbrick is not obvious and it is a common finding in a damp survey.
  7. Clean them out with a brush and a vacuum.A stiff brush and a narrow vacuum nozzle. Cobwebs, leaf litter, mortar droppings and old insulation all restrict them and it takes a minute each.
  8. Check inside the void where you can.Lifting a floorboard or looking through an access hatch. Rubble, old insulation and debris in the void can block the path even when the airbricks themselves are clear.
  9. Replace broken or missing ones.Clay or plastic airbricks are inexpensive and straightforward to replace. A missing one lets rodents into the void, which is its own problem.
  10. Fit a periscope vent through insulation.Where cavity wall insulation or an extension has interrupted the path, a telescopic or periscope vent carries the air through. This is the correct answer rather than accepting a blocked vent.
  11. Check there are enough of them.They should be reasonably spaced along each wall, with cross-ventilation from one side to the other. A void with airbricks on only one wall does not ventilate properly.
  12. Leave appliance vents entirely alone.A vent serving a gas fire, boiler or solid fuel appliance is a combustion air supply. Blocking or restricting it is dangerous. If unsure what a vent serves, ask a Gas Safe engineer.
  13. Deal with draughts a different way.If the floor is draughty, insulate under it and seal the gaps between floorboards. That addresses the draught while keeping the void ventilated.
  14. Check them annually.Autumn, when leaves accumulate. It takes ten minutes round the whole house and it is among the highest-value maintenance checks there is.

Tips

  • Walk the perimeter once and photograph each airbrick. It makes the annual check a two-minute comparison.
  • A blocked airbrick is a far more expensive problem than a cold floor. Insulate under the floor instead.
  • Look specifically for render and paint over them. It is the blockage people never notice.

Common mistakes

  • Blocking airbricks to stop draughts — The void then holds moisture, and rot in the joists and floorboards follows. It causes far more damage than the draught it removes, and it is a common finding in damp surveys.
  • Raising ground level over an airbrick — A new patio, path or raised bed can bury a vent and bridge the damp-proof course at the same time. Keep the ground clear and below the DPC.

If it doesn't work

Musty smell and damp at floor level

Cause: Blocked or insufficient subfloor ventilation — Fix: Find and clear every airbrick, dig back raised ground, and check the void for debris blocking the path.

Airbrick below the new ground level

Cause: Raised patio, path or border — Fix: Dig a clear channel in front of it, or fit a periscope vent to raise the opening above ground.

Springy or soft floorboards near an outside wall

Cause: Possible rot from poor void ventilation — Fix: Clear the vents and get the timber assessed. Persistent damp in a floor void needs proper investigation.

Air vent whistling or draughty inside

Cause: Room vent serving an appliance — Fix: Do not block it. Fit a baffle or hit-and-miss cover only if it does not serve a fuel-burning appliance, and check with a Gas Safe engineer.

Questions people ask

Should I block up airbricks in winter?

No. They ventilate the void under a suspended timber floor, and blocking them causes damp and rot in the joists and boards. Insulate under the floor instead if it is cold.

How do I know if my airbricks are blocked?

Walk the perimeter and look at each one — soil, plants, a raised patio, render or paint can all obstruct them. Also check inside the void for rubble or old insulation blocking the airflow path.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Home & DIY.