How do I clean and lubricate a bike chain?

Why a clean chain matters more than an oiled one, choosing wet or dry lube, and wiping off the excess that collects grit.

Difficulty: beginner
Time: 30 min
Read: 4 min

Short answer

Clean the chain first with degreaser and a brush, dry it, then apply one drop of lube to each roller and wipe all the excess off the outside. Oil on the outside of a chain does nothing except collect grit.

A chain wears out because grit gets between the rollers and the pins and grinds them. Lube belongs inside the rollers; anything on the outside is a magnet for the grit that causes the wear.

What you'll need

Chain degreaser or a citrus cleaner
A stiff brush or a chain cleaning tool
Chain lube — wet or dry to suit conditions
Clean rags

Step by step

Clean before you lubricate.Adding lube to a dirty chain makes a grinding paste. Cleaning is the part that extends chain life; lubricating a dirty chain barely helps at all.
Degrease the chain.A chain cleaning tool clamped on while you turn the pedals backwards, or degreaser and a stiff brush working along the chain. Turn the cranks slowly to reach every link.
Clean the cassette and chainrings too.A rag pulled between the sprockets and a brush on the chainrings. A clean chain on a dirty cassette is dirty again within a mile.
Rinse and dry thoroughly.Rinse the degreaser off with a little water, then dry the chain completely with a rag and by turning the cranks. Lube will not penetrate a wet chain, and a wet chain rusts quickly.
Choose the right lube.Wet lube for winter and rain — it stays put and attracts more dirt. Dry lube for dry summer conditions — it stays cleaner and washes off in rain. Ceramic and wax options exist and need more discipline.
Apply one drop per roller.To the inside face of the chain, one drop on each roller, turning the pedals backwards. That is where the moving parts are.
Let it penetrate, then wipe everything off.Leave it a few minutes, then wipe the outside of the chain thoroughly with a clean rag. The lube inside stays; the film outside would only collect grit. This step is the one people skip.
Do not lubricate the cassette or chainrings.They do not need it. Oil there just collects dirt and transfers back onto the chain.
Keep oil off the brakes.Any oil on a disc rotor or a rim braking surface destroys braking. Cover the disc, or remove the wheel, and clean any contamination with isopropyl alcohol.
Set a routine by conditions.Roughly every 100 to 200 miles, and after any wet or muddy ride. A squeaking chain is already overdue and is wearing itself out.
Check the chain for wear.A chain checker tool costs very little. A worn chain wears the cassette and chainrings, so replacing the chain in time turns an expensive job into a cheap one.

Tips

Clean matters more than oiled. A dry clean chain outlasts an oily dirty one.
Wipe all the excess off. Lube on the outside only collects grit.
Replace a worn chain early and you save the cassette and chainrings.

Common mistakes

Spraying lube all over the chain and leaving it — Oil on the outer plates does nothing useful and acts as flypaper for road grit, which then works into the rollers and grinds the chain out much faster than running it dry would.
Using general-purpose spray oil — Thin penetrating sprays displace water well but are not chain lubricants — they wash out within a few miles and can strip what lubrication is already in the rollers.

If it doesn't work

Chain squeaks

Cause: Dry chain — Fix: Clean, dry and lubricate it properly; a squeak means wear is already happening.

Black oily deposit on everything

Cause: Too much lube, not wiped off — Fix: Degrease fully and reapply one drop per roller, wiping the outside afterwards.

Chain rusty after a wet ride

Cause: Water left on a bare chain — Fix: Dry and lubricate after wet rides; surface rust can be cleaned off, deep rust means replacement.

Gears skip under load after a new chain

Cause: Worn cassette that the old chain matched — Fix: Replace the cassette as well; this is why chains are replaced before they are badly worn.

Braking has become weak and noisy

Cause: Oil contamination on the rotor or rim — Fix: Clean with isopropyl alcohol; contaminated disc pads usually need replacing.

Questions people ask

How often should I lubricate my chain?

Every 100 to 200 miles in dry conditions, and after every wet or muddy ride. If it squeaks, it is already overdue and has been wearing itself out.

Can I use WD-40 on a bike chain?

The general-purpose spray is a water displacer, not a chain lubricant, and washes out quickly. Use a proper bike chain lube; the same brand's dedicated chain lubes are fine.