How do I chop a hinge recess accurately with a chisel?
Knife lines, a depth gauge, the series of chopping cuts and the paring that gets a hinge sitting flush first time.
- Difficulty
- intermediate
- Time
- 35 min
- Read
- 4 min
- Safety
- caution
Short answer
Mark the outline with a knife rather than a pencil, set a marking gauge to the hinge leaf thickness, chop a series of vertical cuts across the waste to that depth, then pare it out from the side. Test the hinge as you go and stop when it sits flush.
A hinge recess is a flat-bottomed housing cut to the exact thickness of the hinge leaf. Too shallow and the door will not close; too deep and it binds against the frame. The technique is old, simple and entirely about accurate marking.
Safety
What you'll need
- sharp bevel-edged chisels
- marking knife
- marking gauge
- mallet
- try square
- clamps
Step by step
- Position the hinge and mark round it with a knife.Hold the hinge exactly where it goes and score round the two ends and the long edge with a marking knife. A knife line severs the fibres, so the chisel drops into it and cannot wander.
- Square the end lines across.Use a try square to extend the marks accurately. Any error here shows as a hinge sitting at an angle.
- Set a marking gauge to the leaf thickness.Set it against the closed hinge leaf itself rather than a ruler, then scribe the depth on the edge between the two end lines.
- Deepen the knife lines.Go over the outline two or three times with the knife, cutting a little deeper each pass. This creates a positive wall for the chisel.
- Pare a small chamfer inside the line.A shallow V cut just inside the knife line gives the chisel a place to register vertically without crushing the edge.
- Chop a series of cuts across the waste.Chisel held vertical, bevel facing the waste, tapped with a mallet to the gauge depth, working across the recess at three or four millimetre intervals. It looks like a row of fins.
- Pare the waste out from the side.Chisel flat, bevel up, working in from the edge. The chopped fins break away easily and leave a flat bottom.
- Work to the depth line and check with a straightedge.Lay a chisel back or a small rule across the recess. Light underneath means it is not flat yet.
- Test-fit the hinge repeatedly.Drop it in as you approach the depth. It should sit flush with the surface without being forced.
- Mark and drill the screw holes.A bradawl or a self-centring hinge bit through the hinge holes. Off-centre pilot holes drag the hinge out of position as the screws tighten.
- Fit one screw per hinge first.Hang the door on a single screw per hinge, check the swing and the gaps, then fit the rest. It is far easier than correcting a fully screwed hinge.
Tips
- The knife line does most of the work. A pencil line is about half a millimetre wide and the chisel will wander in it.
- A self-centring hinge drill bit is inexpensive and removes the commonest cause of a hinge pulling out of position.
- If in doubt, cut slightly shallow. Deepening a recess is easy; packing a too-deep one with card is a repair.
Common mistakes
- Marking with a pencil — A pencil line is wide and has no wall. The chisel drifts within the line's width and the recess ends up oversized, so the hinge is loose and the door moves.
- Chopping straight down on the outer line first — The bevel forces the chisel backwards into the good work. Chop inside the line, then pare back to it with the flat face against the knife wall.
If it doesn't work
Hinge stands proud of the surface
Cause: Recess too shallow — Fix: Pare a little more from the bottom, checking with a straightedge. Work in small increments and keep test-fitting.
Hinge sunk below the surface and the door binds
Cause: Recess too deep — Fix: Pack behind the leaf with thin card or veneer cut to the leaf shape. It is a standard and durable repair.
Recess edges ragged
Cause: No knife line, or a blunt chisel — Fix: Score firmly with a knife, and hone the chisel. A sharp chisel leaves a cut edge, a blunt one crushes.
Hinge pulled out of position as screws tightened
Cause: Pilot holes not centred — Fix: Use a self-centring bit, or bradawl carefully through the centre of each hinge hole.
Questions people ask
Can I use a router instead?
Yes, with a hinge jig, and for several doors it is much faster and very consistent. You still square the corners with a chisel unless the hinge has radiused corners.
Which chisel width?
One slightly narrower than the recess so you can work inside the lines, plus a wider one for paring the bottom flat. A 12mm and a 25mm cover almost all hinges.
Do both the door and the frame need a recess?
It depends on the hinge and the gap. Traditionally both are recessed by half the closed hinge thickness, but many modern doors have the full recess in the door only.