Which multi-tool or oscillating tool should I choose?

An oscillating multi-tool is slow at everything and the only tool that can do several specific jobs at all, which is exactly what makes it worth owning and easy to be disappointed by.

Safety

Step by step

1. Understand what it is actually for.Plunge cuts into a flat surface, flush cuts against another surface, and cutting in confined spaces. No other tool does those. It is not a replacement for a saw, a sander or a grinder at any of their jobs.
2. Know the jobs that justify it.Undercutting doorframes and architrave for flooring, cutting out sealant, removing grout, cutting a sink opening in a fitted worktop, cutting nails flush, trimming pipework in a tight space.
3. Expect it to be slow.It removes material a little at a time by design. People expecting saw speed find it disappointing. It is an access tool rather than a production one.
4. Check the blade fitting system.A universal or Starlock-compatible fitting is the important compatibility question, since it determines which blades you can buy. Proprietary-only fittings restrict you to expensive branded blades.
5. Insist on tool-free blade changes.You will change blades constantly. A lever-release system versus an Allen key is the single feature that most affects whether the tool is pleasant to use.
6. Look for variable speed.Slow for plastics and metal — high speed melts plastic and burns blades on metal. Fast for wood. A single-speed tool is a real limitation.
7. Budget for blades.They are consumables and they are not cheap. A multipack of decent bi-metal blades costs a meaningful fraction of a budget tool, and you will spend more on blades than on the tool.
8. Buy bi-metal blades for anything with nails.Wood-only blades are destroyed instantly by a hidden nail or screw. Bi-metal cuts wood with embedded fixings, which is most renovation work.
9. Choose corded or cordless by use.Corded is cheaper and never flat, and this tool is used in short bursts where a trailing lead is a nuisance. Cordless is genuinely better here if you already have batteries in that system.
10. Check the vibration and grip.They all vibrate considerably. A rubberised body and reasonable weight make a real difference over a long job, and vibration is a health issue with prolonged use.
11. Look at accessory range rather than the sanding pad.The triangular sanding pad supplied with most is poor — a real sander does it far better. Judge the tool on its cutting and scraping accessories.
12. Consider mid-range rather than budget or premium.Budget tools have weak blade clamps that slip under load. Premium ones are built for daily trade use. Mid-range with a universal blade fitting is the domestic answer.
13. Always check behind before plunging.A detector, and think about where cables and pipes run from sockets, switches and radiators. Plunge cutting blind into a wall or floor is how services get cut.

Tips

• Buy for the blade fitting compatibility. Being locked into one brand's blades costs more over time than the tool did.
• Bi-metal blades for anything in an existing building. Hidden nails destroy wood-only blades in seconds.
• Ignore the sanding attachment when comparing models. It is the weakest thing these tools do.

Common mistakes

• Buying a tool with a proprietary blade fitting — You are then restricted to that brand's blades at their price, and blades are the real ongoing cost. Universal or Starlock-compatible fittings keep the options open.
• Running it at full speed on plastic or metal — High speed melts plastic and overheats blades on metal, which destroys the teeth. Use the variable speed control.

If it doesn't work

Questions people ask