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Which ladder is right for the job?

Step ladder, extension or platform — matching the ladder to the height, and reading the ratings that matter.

Difficulty
beginner
Time
15 min
Read
4 min
Safety
warning

Short answer

A step ladder covers indoor work and most gutter height on a bungalow. For a two-storey house you need an extension ladder that reaches a metre above the point you are working at. Check the class rating — domestic-rated ladders are lighter and lower-rated than trade ones.

Most households own one ladder and use it for everything, which is where the problem starts. The right ladder for a job is mostly a question of how high, how long you will be up there, and whether you need both hands.

Safety

Falls from height are the most common cause of serious DIY injury, and most involve a ladder that was the wrong type, on the wrong ground, or reached from. Check the load rating covers you plus what you are carrying. Never use a ladder near overhead power lines, and never use an aluminium one for electrical work.

Step by step

  1. Work out the actual working height.Not the ladder's length. You should stand no higher than the third rung from the top of a step ladder, and an extension ladder needs to project about a metre above the point you step off or work at.
  2. Use a step ladder for indoor work and low outdoor jobs.Self-supporting, no wall needed, and stable if the ground is level. Look for a top platform and a handrail rather than just a top step — it makes a real difference to how long you can work comfortably.
  3. Use an extension ladder for anything at eaves height.Two or three sections. It must lean against something solid, at about one metre out for every four up, and be secured at the top or footed by someone.
  4. Consider a combination or multi-purpose ladder.Folds into a step ladder, an extension, or a stair configuration. Genuinely useful in a house with stairs, though heavier and more expensive than either alone.
  5. Get a platform or podium step for long jobs.Painting a ceiling, wallpapering, fitting lights. Standing on a platform with a guardrail for an hour is a completely different experience from standing on a rung.
  6. Check the class rating.Ladders carry a rating for the load they take and the use they are intended for. Domestic-rated ladders are lighter and lower-rated than trade ones. Check the figure covers you plus tools and materials.
  7. Choose the material for the job.Aluminium is light and the default. Fibreglass is heavier, more expensive, and does not conduct — the only sensible choice near anything electrical. Timber ladders are largely obsolete and hard to inspect.
  8. Check the feet.Rubber feet in good condition, and ideally adjustable or a stabiliser bar for uneven ground. Worn feet on a hard smooth surface are how ladders slide out.
  9. Think about weight and storage.A ladder too heavy to carry alone will not get used, or will get used badly. Consider where it will live — a three-metre extension ladder needs somewhere to go.
  10. Consider hiring or scaffolding for anything sustained.A day of work at height is not a ladder job. A small tower or hired scaffold is far safer and far less tiring, and costs less than people assume.
  11. Inspect it before every use.Bent stiles, cracked or loose rungs, damaged feet, seized locking hooks. A ladder that has been dropped or stored outdoors for years needs looking at properly.

Tips

  • A ladder stand-off arm keeps the top clear of gutters and spreads the load against the wall. Inexpensive and it removes the most common reason gutters get crushed.
  • Never work at height alone. Someone footing the ladder and aware you are up there is worth more than any accessory.
  • If you find yourself reaching, climb down and move it. Every time. That is the rule that prevents most falls.

Common mistakes

  • Standing on the top two rungs of a step ladder — There is nothing to hold and the centre of gravity is above the frame. Buy a taller ladder rather than using the top of a short one.
  • Setting an extension ladder too upright — Too steep and it tips backwards; too shallow and the base slides out. One out for every four up is the working ratio.

If it doesn't work

Ladder feet slipping on a hard surface

Cause: Worn rubber feet or too shallow an angle — Fix: Replace the feet, correct the angle, and have someone foot the base. On smooth ground, a rubber mat under the feet helps.

Ladder rocks on uneven ground

Cause: No levelling provision — Fix: Use a proper levelling accessory or a solid board — never bricks, offcuts or anything stacked.

Gutter flexing under the ladder top

Cause: Ladder leaning directly on the guttering — Fix: Fit a stand-off arm so the load goes onto the wall rather than the gutter.

Questions people ask

What size ladder do I need for a two-storey house?

An extension ladder that reaches about a metre above the point you are working at — for typical eaves that means a ladder extending to around six metres. Set it at one metre out for every four up.

Should I buy an aluminium or fibreglass ladder?

Aluminium for general use — lighter and cheaper. Fibreglass if there is any chance of working near electrics, because it does not conduct.

Want the whole subject?

  • ToolFoundry (in development)

    Ladder classes, load ratings and the standards behind them go deeper than a buying guide can.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Home & DIY.