How do I remove dried glue from wood, plastic and fabric?
Identify the adhesive first, because the removal method for PVA, polyurethane, superglue, contact adhesive and hot melt are all different and using the wrong one sets it harder.
Practical answers for repairs, cleaning, decorating and the household problems that turn up whether you planned for them or not. Written so you can start with what you already own.
2,154 guides
Identify the adhesive first, because the removal method for PVA, polyurethane, superglue, contact adhesive and hot melt are all different and using the wrong one sets it harder.
Establishing whether the tiles are safe to lift at all, then the heat-and-scrape method and what to do about the adhesive left behind.
Getting the tiles off, then the much harder problem of the adhesive blobs left behind — and the point where the right answer is to board over the lot instead.
How to strip wallpaper without wrecking the plaster underneath — scoring, soaking or steaming, and cleaning off the residual paste.
What can realistically be repaired on acrylic and on enamel, the two-part filler method, and when a repair is only cosmetic.
Telling a shrinkage crack from a structural one, cutting out and filling properly, and when a drive is past repairing.
How the ceiling is held up, why the keys fail, and repairing cracks and small failed patches without pulling the whole ceiling down.
Three ways to recover a hole that has crumbled — moving, filling and redrilling, or chemical anchoring — and how to choose between them.
Why swollen laminate cannot be dried out, how to replace a board mid-floor, and what has to happen before any repair.
Finding the full extent of the failure by tapping, cutting back to sound material, and matching a patch in — plus the honest test for whether patching is worth doing at all.
Finding how far the rot goes, choosing between filler and a splice, and why the paint failure has to be fixed too.
Choosing the right profile for the two floors it joins, cutting it accurately, and fixing it so it does not become a trip hazard.
Recognising one that is about to fail, buying the right length and thread, and fitting it without overtightening.
The four connector types, which one to buy for the offset you actually have, and fitting a push-fit connection so it seals without silicone.
Choosing the right length and fitting, why almost every domestic shower hose is the same thread, and getting the washers in the right places.
Identifying which type you have, matching a replacement, and fitting it so it holds against a real push rather than a gentle one.
Getting a very heavy glazed sash out of its track safely, matching a replacement carriage you cannot look up, and putting it back without damaging the frame.
Identifying which of the two or three gaskets on a uPVC door has failed, matching a profile you cannot look up, and fitting it without stretching it.
Matching the mortar to the wall, why cement on an old building causes damage, and cutting out to the right depth.
Where to drill through a stud, how to protect a cable from a future screw, and the planning that means you never have to open the wall again.
What must never be stored together, where each thing actually belongs, and the container rule that matters most.
Denibbing is not sanding back — it is a light key with a fine grit. Which grit, how much pressure, when the coat is ready, and how to get the dust off before recoating.
Why corners are movement joints rather than grout joints, the order to run the beads so they overlap correctly, and the technique for tooling a corner without dragging it out.
Exposed gypsum core soaks up everything you put on it and raises a fuzz of loose fibre. Why an ordinary primer does not fix it, and the sealing step that does.
Material properties, comparisons and suitability — paints, fillers, sealants, timber, tile, insulation.
MaterialWorld is in development — GuideHQ covers the practical answers in the meantime.