What do I do if a builder damages something?
Which insurance responds to what, the order to act in, and why claiming on your own policy first is usually the wrong move.
Fixing the things that break — taps, handles, holes, hinges.
553 guides in Home & DIY
Which insurance responds to what, the order to act in, and why claiming on your own policy first is usually the wrong move.
Fifteen minutes of checks that resolve a large share of appliance faults, plus the information to have ready if they do not — because a call-out is typically £70 to £120 and is usually payable whether or not anything was wrong.
Five reasons a hob refuses a pan, in the order that finds the answer fastest — and how to tell a pan problem from a hob fault.
What a thermostatic valve is supposed to do about pressure changes elsewhere in the house, why it stops doing it, and the descaling that usually restores it.
The four reasons a bookcase leans forward, why loading and floor covering matter more than people expect, and the anchoring that removes the risk entirely.
Stair carpet works loose at the nosing and the edges because that is where it is stretched hardest and walked on most. The fix depends on what is holding it.
Separating a worn key from a worn cylinder, a door under load and a lock that has simply dried out — with the cheapest and most likely causes checked first.
Floorboards move, cup and have gaps, so most new floors want a layer of board over them first. Whether you can skip that depends on the state of the boards and the floor going down.
Deep holes are filled in layers with the right material for each layer. Trying to do it in one pass is what produces the sunken, cracked repair everyone recognises.
The three things that stop a washing machine draining — filter, hose and pump — and how to check each in order.
An honest account of which plastering jobs a competent DIYer succeeds at, which ones almost everyone fails at first time, and what a bad attempt costs you to put right.
What each professional actually produces, the jobs where one of them is unavoidable, and the cheaper middle options people do not know exist.
Why the base decides how long a shed lasts, the three practical options, and getting it level and square before anything is built on it.
Why gutters sag, restoring the fall so water actually runs, and the bracket spacing that stops it recurring.
Recognising when sealant needs replacing rather than cleaning, and replacing it so it lasts.
Why a drain smells even when it is not blocked, and the three causes — biofilm, a dry trap and a blocked overflow.
Matching the fixing to the wall and the weight, using two points rather than one, and where not to hang one at all.
Lifting carpet and underlay cleanly, dealing with gripper rods and staples, and getting the old material out of the house.
What can actually be repaired on laminate, solid wood and composite worktops, and the fixes that make damage worse.
Cutting out a damaged board over the right bearing, supporting the new one properly, and dealing with the tongue so the replacement drops in without wrecking its neighbours.
Matching the profile, cutting and joining plastic gutter, and setting the new section to the existing fall.
Identifying which mechanism you have, measuring before buying, and getting the seal right so it does not weep.
Temporary repairs that genuinely hold — a repair clamp, self-amalgamating tape, epoxy putty — and the order of actions that limits the damage while you wait.
The paper test finds a failing seal in two minutes, and on most appliances the gasket is a push-fit part the owner can change with no tools at all.
Material properties, comparisons and suitability — paints, fillers, sealants, timber, tile, insulation.