Why does rain shoot straight over my gutter?
Water leaving the roof faster than the gutter can catch it usually means a steep roof, a valley concentrating flow, or a gutter set too far in.
The jobs that stop problems happening in the first place.
353 guides in Home & DIY
Water leaving the roof faster than the gutter can catch it usually means a steep roof, a valley concentrating flow, or a gutter set too far in.
Masonry paint peels off render for one of three reasons, and only one of them is about the paint. How to tell which you have before spending a summer on it.
Visual checks and test-button routines any householder can safely do, and the warning signs that need an electrician.
Which pipes freeze and why, how to lag them, and what to do if one has already frozen.
Why an external socket is notifiable work, what a properly installed one involves, what it should cost, and what to specify when you ask for one.
A recoat renews the finish without touching the timber, so it uses up none of the floor's remaining sandings. The test that says whether your floor qualifies, and the preparation that decides whether the new coat sticks.
No — a vented dryer's exhaust is the load's entire water content plus fine lint, and putting that into a room causes damp in the short term and mould in the medium term.
The five square metre rule, what counts as permeable, and the separate dropped kerb permission that catches people out.
Why depth is about ground movement rather than strength, the minimum depths Approved Document A publishes, and why the honest answer for any particular site is that it depends on what is found in the trench.
How to clear and check gutters and downpipes without taking unnecessary risks, and how to tell when it's a job to pay someone for.
Why the bottom board is the part that rots, and how to fit a timber or concrete gravel board so the panel never touches the soil again.
The four ways a house loses rights it appears to have on paper — and the two searches that find all of them in an afternoon.
The sub-base, laying course and edge restraints that make block paving work, and the compaction and jointing that finish it.
The gate that closes off the back of a house is the highest-value single measure most homes can take, and the hardware rather than the timber is what decides whether it works.
Why sliding and French doors are the weak pair on most houses, and the specific additions — sash jammers, shoot bolts, laminated glazing, anti-lift adjustment — that close each gap.
A solid wood worktop is finished before it is fitted, on all six faces, and that is what decides whether it stays flat and survives the sink. The sequence and the places people miss.
Mortar pointing, dry brushing and resin jointing compounds compared, and the preparation that stops any of them failing in a season.
Getting the notice right, the three ways a neighbour can respond, what a surveyor actually does, and who ends up paying for it.
Grit before it freezes rather than after, and the common approaches that make things worse.
A condensate pipe that froze once will freeze again. The four changes that actually prevent it, in order of how much difference they make.
Corrugated garage roofs, flat sheets, downpipes and soffits from before 1999. How to recognise likely asbestos cement, why it is treated differently from insulating board, and what the rules actually say.
How to tell a settled historic slope from active movement, how to measure and record it, and the three honest options for living with, disguising or correcting a floor that is out of level.
What an old rewireable board does and does not protect you from, whether replacement is legally required, what a new consumer unit involves, and roughly what it costs.
What a softener does and does not do, where the savings actually come from, and the running costs and plumbing constraints to weigh first.
Material properties, comparisons and suitability — paints, fillers, sealants, timber, tile, insulation.